Friday, June 27, 2008

Message to Frank and Bloggers (from Phil Chippendale)

Weather today:

Daily Miles Covered:

Total Miles Covered:

Things of Interest:

Personal Comments: Many congratulations, Frank on a brilliant achievement! As most people know, I had to "pull out" in Peebles after 51 days of walking (having covered 718.6 miles), due to contracting a severe infection which settled on my hips and put me in hospital for 19 days. (I was discharged 2 days ago on 25th June)
I would like all the blog readers to know that whilst I was obviously disappointed when I dropped out, I realised whilst in hospital, that recovery, and good health were more important to me than seeing John O'Groats.
Hopefully, I am now on the road to a full recovery and am extremely happy for Frank.
Tomorrow is another day as they say, and as such I might well rise from the ashes (so to speak) in the future and 'march north' from Peebles!
Final comment - "Alls well that ends well" (In every respect)
Phil Chip

Thursday, June 26, 2008

Wick to John o' Groats (Duncansby Head)

Weather today: Sunny cool breezy

Daily Miles Covered: 19.2

Total Miles Covered: 1071.7

Things of Interest: John O' Groats

Personal Comments: Well I made it. I knew I could do it, because I wanted do do it. I've waited 40 years for this opportunity, and I wasn't going to let it pass me by. I had a good back up team, thank you to all of them, Andrew, Ross, and Harry, bad luck to Phil, his turn will come again. There was no pipe band at the end, but I never thought there would be. I completed it in 87 days (71 walking days, 16 rest days) I walked 1071 miles, maybe more because GPS doesn't work in deep woods, certainly no less. It's a record set by me, never to be beaten by me! I've enjoyed it all, some days were tough, some were easy.
Finally, I'd like to thank all of those generous people of the UK. who gave us free accomodation, who gave us free meals and beer,all in the good name of Macmillan.
For all the people who have pledged money now is the time. It's not to late to donate money online via the website. the site will stay open until October. If you have cash Sue Johnson C/O The Peel Park Hotel, Turkey St., Accrington will put it into the fund. Whatever you do, don't forget about Macmillan Cancer Support, they will always be there for you.
Good luck, Frank Whittaker (and Philip Chippendale)
Thank you for reading

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Latheron to Wick

Weather today: Gale force winds, rain

Daily Miles Covered: 19

Total Miles Covered: 1052.5

Things of Interest: People phoning me, en route.

Personal Comments: Caithness is low lying, with moors and peat bogs that stretch to the sea, and consequently when the wind blows there isn't a lot to stop it, today was no exception, where are the pine trees when you need them. The wind was a howling gale, shoving me all the time into the road, so I had to walk leaning to my right for most of the way, again concentrating fully. Lisa, my daughter phoned me up asked of my welfare, then a friend Dave called asked me when I was starting this trek! I think he knew really. All the way on the A99 the weather for June was atrocious, the rain didn't relent all day. Small villages came and went, but there never seemed to be anyone around. There were lots of abandoned cottages and farmsteads that could easily be rectified, because when the sun shines the views all around would be tremendous.
I entered Wick with the rain still lashing down, and found Harry on a Somerfield car park, I got out of my wet gear, had a brew, and knew that tomorrow would be the last day, it's a strange feeling I'll tell you.

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Helmsdale to Latheron (Caithness)

Weather today: Sunny all day

Daily Miles Covered: 20.2

Total Miles Covered: 1033.5

Things of Interest: Badbea clearance village

Personal Comments: First of all we would like to thank Les and Greta of La Mirage restaurant Helmsdale for their generosity in providing us with a free supper last night. Ross organised it, he is still looking after us in another country. Usual early start up the A9 to where they were building a new section of road. I was told by an official looking chap with a hard hat on, not to proceed up the new part as it wasn't allowed. Ok I said until I saw that it went parallel with the old road and there wasn't a vehicle in sight. He wasn't walking to John O' Groats I was, you can guess the rest! 6 miles further I came to Badbea an ancient village which became a place where people took refuge, when they had been forced to leave their homes by the Lairds. The Lairds decided they could make more money dealing in sheep, than collecting rent from the tenant farmers. It became known as The Highland Clearances, mans inhumanity to man!. What I would like to know is why they built the village next to the A9!.
Further along at Ramscraig I met Eve and Ann who live at The Schoolhouse, they kindly gave me £20 for Macmillan, well done both of you. The day was really warm so I took lunch behind a wall next to the road. Soon I came into Latheron where Harry was parked. A welcome brew went down well, rested for a short while, then I looked at the map for tomorrow, I'll make Wick, then just one day left

Monday, June 23, 2008

Brora to Helmsdale

Weather today: Sunny, showers

Daily Miles Covered: 13.2

Total Miles Covered: 1013.3

Things of Interest: Arctic terns

Personal Comments: What a difference a day makes, today I awoke a little later due to an easier day, and clear blue sky, a little on the cool side, but what the heck. Today, again would be a trip up the A9, and being a member of the self preservation society, I intend to keep well to the right!. I tried to walk up the beach again, but because of the river flowing through Brora, I had to cross it in the town, so I gave up and went A9. There was a pavement to take me out of town, once that had gone the lunacy returned. This is one part of the walk I wont miss.
The views to the north were good, and likewise looking back to Brora. I kept my concentration going watching for motorist who don't know the width of their cars it seems.
Approaching Helmsdale I came across a colony of Arctic Terns, it seems they take great exception to anyone being in the same county as them, they were dive bombing me for a couple of minutes until I was out of their territory. Quite a graceful bird undulating flight pattern, with a screech to wake the dead. Helmsdale has a delightful harbour area, and when the sun shines it is a nice place to have lunch, so I did. Tomorrow will be 20 or so up the A9, yes I know!

Sunday, June 22, 2008

Tain to Brora (Sutherland (no more!))

Weather today: Rain, 70mph winds

Daily Miles Covered: 23

Total Miles Covered: 1000.1

Things of Interest: Nothing

Personal Comments: If anybody asks me which day did you like best I was going to say all of them, now, today I can't. Today was horrendous, incessant rain all day, but worst of all was the wind. Before I set off I knew it would be bad, but nothing could have prepared me for crossing The Dornoch Firth. Leaving Tain by the A9, I was buffeted by high winds trying to send me across the carriageway into the traffic. I walked as far to the right as I could, but it was hard keeping a straight line. 2 miles down the road it became more exposed, and the wind increased in force. As I started to cross the firth the wind became almost double the strength it was before.
On the bridge the mesh which provided protection to stop people dropping into the sea below, was causing the wind to howl and scream like a banshee, I had to hold on to my hat with one hand, with the other I held on to the rail. At one point it was difficult to breathe, the wind was so strong in my face. Half way across I met a young girl who was carrying her bicycle, it was impossible to ride, I think she was carrying it for ballast. We had an animated conversation for a minute I wished her well. Once across, the wind died down to gale force proportions, and I carried on up the A9. I had lunch at Golspie, where everybody was indoors for obvious reasons.
2 miles beyond Golspie I found a path leading to a beach, and luckily it took me to Brora and to complete the day I had just covered my 1000th mile, yippee.

Dingwall to Tain

Weather today: Sunny, warm

Daily Miles Covered: 26.1

Total Miles Covered: 977.1

Things of Interest: Cromarty firth

Personal Comments: A full days road walking today was the order, but there was no alternative. Leaving Dingwall a found a minor road which was slightly longer than the main road, but it would be better. Going parallel with The Cromarty Firth, it gave good views to the sea and all around. I passed through small villages en route, until I came to Alness which was a lovely market town. The sun was shining, people were doing their shopping, and going about their business in general. Today I thought I hadn't brought enough food, so I bought 3 pies to keep me going. After Alness there is little to report, a country lane that took me all the way to Tain through pleasant countryside. Once in Tain, a short walk down the A9, I found Harry parked in a lay-bye. After 26 miles, I thought a drink would go down well, so we called for one in The St. Duthus hotel, and did it taste good. More of the same on Sunday I'm afraid but that's the way it is now

Friday, June 20, 2008

Drumnadrochit to Dingwall (Ross and Cromarty)

Weather today: Showery

Daily Miles Covered: 27.3

Total Miles Covered: 951

Things of Interest: Red Kites

Personal Comments: I wasn't looking forward to the afternoon, where I knew it would be on the main roads. As I left D/drochit it was on my mind, but on I went. The G.G.way was to prove to have just another sting in the tail. It turned out that my last section was to be the highest on all the way. Leaving the main A82, upwards I went, where I met a young guy from S. Africa called Aiden. We walked along together for 5 miles to reach the top and not a view of L. Ness in sight. 1 mile further on we said goodbye, he was off to Inverness, I was off to Dingwall. It was forced medicine as there was no alternative, but to walk on tarmac to go north. In a wood near to Belladrum, I had lunch in style, I found a plastic chair, positioned in the sun and ate well. At this point a Golden Eagle, again came soaring into view, it stayed around for 3 minutes or so, what a wonderful sight. On the A833 it wasn't as bad as I thought, but I knew the A862 wouldn't be so kind. In Beauly, I rested and let the world go by for 20 minutes, this where I saw a couple of Red Kites gliding around the sky, I believe there is a reserve nearby at Strathpeffer (Courtesy of P.C.) Taking my life in my hands again I bit the bullet and went quickly to Muir of Ord. A nice quiet place, a bit different. On again to Dingwall not daring to look anywhere but at the traffic. Made it safe only just.

Thursday, June 19, 2008

Fort Augustus to Drumnadrochit

Weather today: Showery all day

Daily Miles Covered: 23

Personal Comments: Leaving F. Augustus behind, there was the mandatory hill to climb at the beginning
Total Miles Covered: 926.7

Things of Interest: Loch Ness


of the day I was armed with my camera at the ready, knowing full well that a quick snap of Nessie could be my salvation. In the woods high above L. Ness, the canopy of trees was not as bad as other days at least I could see the sky. The showers came and went, at least it wasn't cold. When there were gaps in the trees the views of L. Ness were stunning, the mist was hanging low, and it gave a surreal look to the landscape. At the 8 mile mark I descended into Invermoriston, a small village that had a bit of history behind it. Thomas Telford built the main road bridge in the village in 1808, to improve transport in area. An arched bridge with plenty of character about it. Leaving Invermoriston behind, another steeper hill this time to climb to take me high again above the glen. I was looking across the loch for 3 tyres submerged to their diameter with a head out of the water winking at me, I have to report people that there is no L. Ness monster, I know it's a shock but there it is.
Still a long way to go, the track wound it's way uphill and down glen frequently, leaving me exasperated at times, I just wanted to go north east. At the top of a hill I met 4 guys who were going in the opposite direction, eating cake and drinking whisky, they offered me both, I took took the cake, whisky ugh! I said goodbye to them, they wished me well. Eventually Drumnadrochit came into view not too soon for me, it had been a tough day. Tomorrow I leave the glen to make an assault on the roads to the east coast

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Clunes to Fort Augustus

Weather today: Drizzle overcast am, Sunny intervals pm.

Daily Miles Covered: 21

Total Miles Covered: 903.7

Things of Interest: The Invergarry Railway

Personal Comments: Damp start to the walk today, I was off at 7.50 with low cloud hanging over the mountains. By L. Lochy all you can see is fir trees, up steep slopes, staying perpendicular all the way to the skyline, both sides of the loch they are everywhere. It didn't interest me the early stage today, so I was glad to see the back of L. Lochy. At Invergarry I had to cross the A82 with great care, to pick up the path on the east side of Loch Oich. 2 miles further along I came across a disused railway. Originally it ran from Fort Augustus to Invergarry, it was built in 1897, with great attention to construction, as there would be an extension eventually to the mainline at Inverness. Sadly in 1946 it closed, and it never came to pass, as there were too many companies involved, and they could not agree. Now the trees are reclaiming their former place, leaves on the line indeed!
The weather by now was picking up, so I had lunch by the side of The Caledonian Canal further along. It was heading to F. Augustus another 6 miles away. The clouds had all lifted giving a completely different look to the day, it quickened my steps. As the canal ends at F. Augustus, here starts Loch Ness, I shall be there tomorrow to dispel the myth of the monster, I hope.

Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Fort William to Clunes (by Loch Lochy)

Weather today: Cloudy

Daily Miles Covered: 15

Total Miles Covered: 882.7

Things of Interest: Neptunes Staircase

Personal Comments: Leaving F. William behind, todays walk will begin on The Great Glen Way. I had no information about whereabouts it started only a map. I found myself on Morrisons car park, then I moved to the station, I eventually found it at the Underwater Centre. It took me along upstream by the River Lochy and soon to a village called Caol. At the start of The Caledonian Canal, there is a series of 8 locks to take boats up approx. 64 ft. to what would be a journey to the east coast of Scotland. It is a feat of civil engineering that Thomas Telford began in 1806 and the canal was completed in 1822. Once past the locks, Harry joined me for 3 miles to keep me company for an hour. With the canal on my left and River Lochy on my right, there was no shortage of things to see. At Gairlochy there was one final lock to take boats to the start of Loch Lochy. The GGW. goes to the east side of L. Lochy, and approaching Bunarkaig a Golden Eagle came swooping across some pines, leaving me astounded it was only maybe 7oft away from me, I wont forget this day. Following the road to Clunes we made camp by L. Lochy, no football for us tonight, ah well.

Monday, June 16, 2008

Kinlochleven to Fort William (Highland)

Weather today: Warm fine

Daily Miles Covered: 13.7

Total Miles Covered: 867.7

Things of Interest: Golden eagles

Personal Comments: The first 2k. today proved to be the hardest, as it climbed out of K/leven. It went up through a broadleaved wood to reveal after half an or so a stunning view back down to the valley, the whole of Loch Leven was revealed, looking quite photogenic, so I took several. Pressing on, I bumped into a young man from Sowerby Bridge, Johnnie, he was carrying a heavy pack as he had been on the tops, so we were evenly paced. We walked together until F. William talking about this and that, he wished me well. The track proved easy to follow, as it was an old drove trail. 3 miles away from F. William, I saw my first ever golden eagle, courtesy of Johnnie, it was soaring high above us, wheeling around effortlessly, possibly looking for lunch. Further down the valley another one came into view, maybe the same one but it was a lot higher. Entering Glen Nevis, I got my first real view of The Ben (Nevis) and what a magnificent sight it was. Towering high over the valley, slightly covered in mist, I could see the tourist trail up, snaking its way upwards in zig zag fashion. There were people on it looking like ants. Having a day off tomorrow we invested in a campsite to get a shower, and all our washing done. I am looking forward to an easy day Monday, as after that its a big push, maybe 20 more walking days to finish

Saturday, June 14, 2008

Bridge of Orchy to Kinlochleven

Weather today: Warm am. Showers pm.

Daily Miles Covered: 21

Total Miles Covered: 854

Things of Interest: RBS Caledonian Challenge

Personal Comments: It was an early start today with quite a few hills to contend with, but nothing I haven't done before. 7.50am and I was set. A short climb had me looking back on the valley I spent last night, what a gorgeous view it was. You can easily run out of superlatives describing these mountains, so if I go o.t.t., you will have to forgive me. 3 miles on I came to Loch Tulla, it was like a mirror, reflecting the surrounding mountains, making it a double show. Beyond the hotel at Inveroran the road ran out and began a gradual climb towards Rannoch Moor. All around were mountains to look at north south, everywhere. On the north facing slopes of some of them, snow still lay, making it look like the summer hadn't arrived in the high country. At King House Hotel, A watering hole on The WHW. I noticed walkers coming towards me, I thought ah! its Saturday, people will about. It turned out to be a sponsored walk from F. William to Ardlui, 54 miles in 24 hrs., what! I thought there would be 50 or so walkers, no, 1800.
I was meeting people for 13 miles on the track. It lasted all the way to Kinlochleven. I said "hello", "not far now" " how's it going" to almost all of them. Yesterday I had the way to myself, but what a difference a day makes. In K/leven Harry and I found a spot for the night, and soon a pub for the football. F. William tomorrow, and a day off Monday.

Friday, June 13, 2008

Crianlarich to Bridge of Orchy (Argyll & Bute)

Weather today: Sunny, Warm, Breezy at times

Daily Miles Covered: 13.4

Total Miles Covered: 833

Things of Interest: The West Highland Way

Personal Comments: Another day dawned, and yet again no sign of rain. Back on the The WHW took me through a dense forest of pine trees to start off, uphill as you would imagine. These dense woods do nothing for me, but I know people love them (Ok J.T.) There were plenty of fords on these tracks, but no water at all was flowing down them, we are in the middle of a dry spell, long may it continue. Onward out of the woods and across the A82, quickly, there was the most delightful River Fillan to walk along. Dappled sunlight filtered through the broadleaved woods this time, and was it beautiful. The water was crystal clear trout lazily swimming above the gravel beds, we live in a fantastic part of the world.
Tyndrum was my next place to visit, a stopping off point for supplies for people going further north. I didn't linger just a banana and then Harry accompanied me for a couple of miles. The railway that goes to Fort William was beside the track for a short while and I believe at a certain viaduct they filmed the train going over called The Hogwarts Express in The Harry Potter film.
The track now is easy to follow with mountains towering above on either side drawing me down the valley to Bridge of Orchy. When I got there I secured a pitch for the night and another day completed.

Last Friday at the 700 mile mark unfortunately Phil unluckily succumbed to a problem with his hips. He didn't know it at the time as he bravely battled on for 3 weeks, he had arthritic septaecemia. He was in great pain daily but refused to give in, but his body was in charge, and in Peebles he had to call it a day.
He is now in The Royal Blackburn Hospital on an antibiotic drip for the infection, and currently comfortable. Well done Philip Chippendale, a marine if ever I knew one. Get well soon.

Rowardennan to Crianlarich

Weather today: Sunny warm afternoon

Daily Miles Covered: 21

Total Miles Covered: 819.6
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Things of Interest: Loch Lomond

Personal Comments: Following the W H Way north the path was lined with rhododendrons and azaleas of every colour imaginable coupled with an array of wild flowers, this is what gladdens my heart. L. Lomond on my left told me I was going in the right direction, it would be there until lunch, 10 miles or so. The midgies weren't a problem if you kept moving, but once you stopped, they were all over you like a rash, and causing one! The path was tough today, scrambling over boulders, up slopes down them, the progress was slow. Inversnaid hotel was the first time I emerged from the trees into the sunshine about 6 miles on. A large complex in the middle of nowhere, looks like a place, where it would cost you £1 to change your mind! At the top of L.Lomond I had lunch, 30 minutes of complete tranquility, the water gently lapping the shore,and the sun beaming down, heaven. Having done 10, I still have 11 to go and the day is getting warmer. The way became more tough as it climbed and climbed. Water was in short supply as the feeder streams to L. L. had all dried up. 2litres was my ration for the day, just about enough. 4.00pm. came and went and Crianlarich was nowhere in sight, I swear it was going away from me, that's what happens when you're tired. 5.00pm I made it, and a welcome brew put me right again, I hope there aren't many more days like today.

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

Drymen to Rowardennan (Stirlingshire)

Weather today:Still fresh, cool

Daily Miles Covered: 11.8

Total Miles Covered: 798.6

Things of Interest: Loch Lomond

Personal Comments: Overnight stop was on a car park belonging to The Buchan Hotel, thanks very much. There was need to go too far today, as Rowardennan was at the end of a cul-de-sac. Leaving Drymen by the road was the only route, until I met The West Highand way again at Balmaha. My first view of Loch Lomond was through a small pine forest, I nearly burst into song " O you tak the high road, an' I'll tak the low road....................." There was some activity further down the road, when 4 fire engines passed me at high speed, I found out later there was a small forest fire, as I passed it, emphasis on the small. L. Lomond was now with me all the way, through forest and occasionally on the shore. The mountains around here are magnificent, towering high above the loch, and sweeping down in a concave swoop. The loftiest is Ben Lomond, at nearly 1000m. it stands sentinel above L. Lomond on the eastern side. I think it is the most southerly of all The Munroes (Mountains in Scotland above 3000 ft.) I reached my destination with aching feet today for some reason, I thought they had gone. As I write this, my view looking northwards up the loch has to be the best view I have had since I set off. Now I know why I chose The West Highland Way. Tomorrow will be tough, 21 miles or so over high ground, an early night me thinks.

Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Twechar to Drymen

Weather today: Best described as very fresh

Daily Miles Covered: 20

Total Miles Covered: 787.8

Things of Interest: Disused railways

Personal Comments: Kirkintilloch was my first port of call down the canal. I reached it at 9.3o, where the wind was nearly blowing cars over. I soon found a disused railway to take me northwards for the first time in 4 days. Milton of Campsie came next, tucked away under The Campsie Fells. The railway took me beyond it, so I didn't get to see much of the village. These disused tracks are a delight to walk, with dappled sunlight filtering through the canopy overhead, makes the whole scene beautiful. Further along at Strathblane the track disappeared behind a hotel, so I asked a local chap and he pointed me in the right direction.
Harry was there so I was spoilt with a cup of tea , most welcome. Drymen was my final destination, on The West Highland Way, 10 miles away, but I had already done 10, so it was tough in the afternoon. It was flat walking so the miles came and went, and as I hit the point where the track met the WHW., I felt another chapter unfolding in the walk. The wind was just as strong later in the day, so steady progress to Drymen was done. From now on The WHW will accompany me to Fort William in 6 days or so

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